- October 5, 2021
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Cadillac, France-The Bordeaux region is as sacred as Mecca to a connoisseur
of fine wine. Especially prized are the golden sweet wines which are protected by the Union des Vins Doux de Bordeaux.
An association of four organizations, the Union ensures the protection of origin and quality standards of the sweet wines produced in its 8 appellations, which include Bordeaux Superieur, Cerons, Loupiac and Cadillac, among others.
To understand more about this coveted wine,which is created exclusively in vineyards that hug the slopes surrounding the Garonne river, and which only is nurtured in the fall, when the morning mmists generate the development of the Botrytis Cinereal fungus, the ‘Noble Rot’ that is the secret component that unlocks the richness of some of the most coveted wines of the world. To further unlock its mytery, I traveled with a small group of wine journalists to the cradle of this historic region for a behind the scenes look at Sweet Bordeaux wine and to learn its secrets of it from the men and women who work tirelessly to produce it.
We first me Caroline Perromat, who with her husband owns the Château de Cerons, a family owned château steeped in history and in old vintages in the Cerons AOP.
Bordeaux is one of the most breathtaking places in France. In fall, at the height of the harvest, the smell of grape must in the air, and the humming sound of mechanical harvesters create a mis ‘en scene that is at once captivating and intoxicating. Bordeaux is like a beautiful woman. Beneath its meticulously manciured exterior and carefully crafted image is a complex subtext that reaches into the pages of antiquity.
When people speak the name ‘Bordeaux,’ the automatically think of red wines which dominate as the region’s most famous. However, with more than 7 thousand chateaus making 10,000 different wines, it is one of its least known, and smallest appellations that produces a sweet white wine which rivals that of its more famoous neighbors of Sauternes and Barsac. It is the appellation Cerons.
Created in 1936, Cerons is comprised of a handfull of small producers across the three communes of Cerons, Illsats and Podensac, which is best known for the famed French spirit Lillet. Château de Cerons is heralded as one of the leading producers in the area.
Listed as an historic monument, the Château de Cerons was built as a vacation home for the Marquis de Calvimont, a prominent Bordeaux parliamentarian in the mid-17th century.
The château has been in the Perromat family since the 1950s. When Xavier Perromat and his wife, Catherine took over the property in 2012, he was the 7th generation wine maker in his family. The couple has opened the château to eager tourist and have turned their little known Bordeaux appeallation into a national treasure.
« Our vines date back to a hundred years, » a beautious, enthusiastic Caroline Perromat explained. «Château de Cerons is a type of château known as a chartreuse, a country house distinguished by its elongated, one-story design, so typical here in the South West of France. »
The Ciron River, which once flowed almost directly behind the chatue, is a tributary of the might Garonne river. The convergence of their variegated waters creates the mist that helps facilitate the botrytis,or noble rot, that transforms the humble Semilion grape into the concentrated, sweet syrup that is found no where else in the world.
It is this unique confluence of climate, history, and nature’s caprice that comprise the key components of Bordeaux sweet wines and the exceptional wines of Cerons.
Château de Cerons enjoys a High Environmental Value (HEV) certification for its environmentally friendly practices. The wine is produced using gravity-low, which preserves its aromas and flavors. Grapes arrive at the top of the multi-level wine-making facility and gravity does the rest ; guiding the grapes through the various processes without the use of mechanical pumps or force to fall directly into fermentation tanks and aging barrells, where the wines spend 24-36 months in the barrel and then age an additional 5-6 years in the bottle. The youngest wines poured in their tasting rooms is at least eight years old !
Built around an impressive central garden, the château features a series of salons, each beautifully appointed with period furniture contrastedwith modern artwork froom local artists.
A focal point is the château’s famous Rotisserie House, where a meal compsed entirely of local meat and produce is prepared entirely in the open fire of the fireplace.
A meal of fire-roasted local Lamb and vegetables directly from the estate’s gardens is prepared entirely over the open fire and served directly to table with a vertical tasting of Ceron wines from their 8, 10 and 20 year-old vintages. One could not have a more superlative experience in such a stunning setting.
Many thanks to our hostess, Caroline Perromat and her hospitality at her magnificent estate at Château de Cerons. For more, visit chateaudecerons.com.
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